Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires was another stop on my Fund for Teachers (FFT) independent fellowship journey in August of 2023. It was sunny and chilly (53F) during the day and even colder at night. On the first day, I visited the military buildings of the Plaza de Armas. Read on to learn about Caminito, la Catedral Metropolitana, and the mausoleum of José de San Martín. We visited the grave of Evita, took tango lessons, and ate the best (and cheapest!) steaks we have had while traveling. We also had alfajores and some excellent dulce de leche.
Plaza Mayo
My favorite stop was the Plaza Mayo and the presidential palaces, the Casa Rosada. This was a sobering stop for me, as I spent my early 20s studying the Guerra Sucia (Dirty War) and the mothers that marched in the plaza for their desaparecidos (disappeared ones). These were the ˜30k young people that disappeared over a period of years following protests.
Recoleta Cemetery
Many famous Argentinian residents and politicians repose in Recoleta, but perhaps the most well known is former first lady Eva Duarte Perón, beloved labor rights activist. I got lost in this labyrinth a few times locating the tomb, but I loved seeing how many people still pay respects to Evita today.
Caminito
Caminito, a colorful neighborhood, was lively, filled with tango dancers and artists, but be warned: it’s often the site of petty crimes and thefts, so watch your belongings here! At this time, Argentina had recently won the world cup, so Messi images were everywhere!
La Catedral Metropolitana
This Roman Catholic church was where the recently deceased Pope Francis led mass for years. It enormous, and the main visitor’s entrance was surprisingly hard to find. This is probably because the walls and entrance were all a nondescript gray. The structure overlooks the Plaza Mayo, and it also houses a treasure: the mausoleum of San Martín (read on to learn more).
Mausoleum of José de San Martín
San Martín is known as the liberator of Ecuador, Chile, Uruguay and Argentina. Although the great general passed away in 1850, he is still regarded as a central figure in the independence movement of the aforementioned nations, as well as the Protector of Peru. The tomb is still guarded, and nearby rests the tomb of the unknown soldier.
Puerto Madero and Sigue la Vaca
This was the view of the Buenos Aires skyline at night from our hotel in the Puerto Madero neighborhood. Because of the exchange rate, we were able to stay in a 4-star hotel here for next to nothing! Literally just across the bridge (reached within minutes on foot) was a great restaurant called Sigue la Vaca (Follow the Cow). For $14 each (and just $11 for BZ, as he was 11 at the time), we had an all-you-can-eat, made-to-order steak dinner. It included salad, sides, drinks, and dessert. We could just walk up to the grill, point to a cut of meat, and have it grilled in front of us. I had some excellent medium-rare steak, as well as some good side dishes from Argentina.
The Traveling Teacher 